make oxtail soup

Well, I seriously doubt that what is sold as ‘oxtail’ in the markets actually comes from an ox. I’m sure it comes from the same steers as all the other meats, but it sounds weird to say “steer tail” or even “beef tail.” It’s obviously one of those (pardon the expression) ‘little by little’ items and as such one might think it’s pretty cheap. However, this is not the case as it is sold at a premium price competing with other select cuts. Clearly, there is good demand for oxtail.

For caldo de res meat, rabo de toro is clearly the best by far. When cooking in large batches I will use bone and sinew, but for smaller pots the meat of choice is oxtail. It takes a full three hours to soften, with conventional pot additions. The clove-studded onion is de rigueur. The best thing about an oxtail broth is that it requires no more handling; it is ready to serve in bowls without straining or modifying.

I treat the oxtail as luxury meat. I know about oxtail stew and other similar dishes, but I would never modify their liquor unless I had a lot of pounds on hand. I also never use it in highly flavored soups. I had the best luck with the oxtail soup with carrots, celery, parsley, and maybe a little barley, as it’s hearty, pleasantly chewy, and neutral in flavor. Crispy baguettes go well with oxtail soup and can be served with cheese for contrast. Plus, exotic vegetable and herb salads dressed with a simple vinaigrette go great with soup.

Heading east to Vietnam, oxtail is a premium stock for delicious pho. I think the basil and bean sprouts don’t compromise in the slightest, and the rice noodles work just fine if you make sure you have a strong starting broth. Use chili sauce with beef strips on the side to avoid ruining the broth.